There is no "correct" temperature for a sauna; it depends on the preferences of the sauna bather and the type of sauna you're in. Read more about different sauna bathing forms here: Sauna bathing forms.

With heat-storing sauna heaters expect a lower temperature in your sauna than what you'll get from a sauna with a wall-hanging heater. Generally, to achieve a high temperature, allow your sauna more time to heat up.

We recommend using a minimum of R-13 fiberglass in the walls and R-19 fiberglass in the ceiling.  Avoid spray foam insulation unless the manufacturer can guarantee the product is stable and will not off-gas when used in sauna bathing temperatures.  

Also, do not forget to cover your insulated stud walls with foil vapor barrier!  The reflective surface will help direct the heat back into your sauna and prevent moisture build-up in your wall cavities.

Tiles are fine in a sauna but there are a few things to think about.  First, tiles get hot inside a sauna, so be careful with where they are located. Benches, backrests and other parts that your body comes into contact with must be made of wood. Second, tiles are also "heavier" to heat up, which may mean your room requires a more powerful heater or your room will take longer to heat up. A rule of thumb is to add one cubic foot of room volume for each square foot of "heavy" material (tiles, stone, glass). Our general recommendation is that no more than 25% of your sauna should be stone, tile, glass, etc.

If you are going to have tiles in your sauna, we do not recommend plaster as a base because of the high temperatures. Please contact an interior materials suppliers for an alternative and recommendations.

You can have a window but it must be made of tempered glass which is able to withstand the differences in temperature and will not crack. If the window can be opened, make sure it is always closed properly when the sauna is on.

Of course. We have a range of doors and benches to choose from. Please contact one of our dealers for more information.

You can apply paraffin oil to the door step, handles, and the wooden floor or decking. This protects the wood’s finish and provides a beautiful, dirt-repellent surface that always retains its freshness.

Please note! The walls and ceiling inside the sauna must not be treated.

If the sauna has been fitted with glass windows or walls, it is advisable to treat the lower strips against the glass with extra care. Condensation often forms here and this can damage the wood. Apply paraffin oil to the exposed sections or repeat the oil treatment at more frequent intervals.

It is possible, provided the heater is close to the door (but we cannot guarantee it). The risk is that the overheat protection in the Tylö heater will trip if the sauna does not have optimal ventilation and air flow.

There are so many different ways of building a sauna. It is important during the planning stage to make sure that you are using the right ventilation depending on what heater you use. Tylö Sense heater, for example, can only be used with natural ventilation where the air inlet is under the heater and the air outlet is at the top of the wall, as far away from the heater and incoming air as possible. The outgoing air must be fed back to the same space from which the incoming air is drawn.

Most other Tylö heaters can be used with natural ventilation and forced mechanical ventilation. The warranty does not cover any problems arising from poor or incorrect ventilation. 

A sauna is heated from the top down, so rooms with a very high ceiling (anything above 8’) will take longer to heat up. A lower ceiling saves energy by reducing the time needed to heat the space and will minimize the heat stratification inside the sauna. Please note: your warranty may be voided if your sauna ceiling is greater than 8’.

It is important to follow the specified safety distances. If the heater requires a ceiling height of 75", the ceiling height (from floor to ceiling) must be at least 75" in the entire sauna. 

There are two approaches to ventilation:

Traditional ventilation leans into the hot airs' natural flow. An inlet of fresh air is located under the heater and an outlet should be placed high on the opposite wall, near the ceiling. This creates a lower temperature on the floor and the lower benches. Tylö Sense heaters, for example, work well with this type of ventilation and is also commonly used with wood burning heaters.

Natural ventilation uses the same inlet vent under the heater but places the outlet vent on an opposite wall, just under the upper bench.  This forces more of the heat to migrate over the lower half of the sauna and reduces the thermal heat stratification.

Your choice of heater will depend on how large your sauna is. Always choose a heater that provides the maximum output in relation to the size. The greater the output, the easier it is for the heater to heat the sauna and maintain the temperature. Energy consumption is also minimized.

Important note: you will need a heater with a higher output if the walls inside the sauna are made of a heavy material, such as concrete, glass, tiles, etc. To calculate the required output, add one cubic foot to the total volume of the sauna room for every square foot of heavy wall material.

The data rating plate is located near the base of the heater. Here you can identify your heater's model, the serial number, the power rating, and the year/month of manufacture.

Yes, most of our sauna heaters require stones to be placed in the heater. Please refer to your manual for the specific model of sauna heater to know what applies to your model. 

The stones should be reset according to the following principle:

• If you use the sauna once a week, the stones should be reset once a year.
• If you use the sauna twice a week, the stones should be reset twice a year.

When resetting the stones, remove broken and sand-surfaced stones and replace with new ones. As they are used, the stones gradually break down and become more compact. It is therefore important to restack them occasionally to allow the air to flow freely between the stones. Good air circulation is required to ensure the heater works properly, plus you'll maximize the life of the heating elements.

In a public sauna instance, the stone compartment (which is used continuously) should be inspected once a month and the stones replaced as necessary.

Tylö's traditional heaters should only have stones in the central compartment, i.e. the two compartments on either side must be open and free of stones. Do not place any stones on the grille on top of the heater.

There are exceptions to this, so please check your manual and installation guide for sauna stone placement instruction.

Yes! When your heater is hot, pour water over the stones to increase the humidity in the sauna.

The amount of water you pour on the stones each time will depend somewhat on the size of the heater. One scoop of water, about 5 ounces is fine. If the water runs out of the bottom of the heater, it means that you've used too much water or the stones are not hot enough. Wait a few minutes before you pour more.

First, please check to see whether a fuse has blown. Then, look to see if all the heating elements are glowing when the heater is turned on. If they are not, it might be because the heater's overheat protection has tripped and shut the heater off. Tylö sauna heaters have a temperature limiter built into the switch box at the bottom of the heater that will trip automatically if there is any risk of overheating. If it is not possible to re-set the temperature limiter on the outside of the heater, please contact a qualified electrician to re-set.

Other factors that can affect heating in your sauna are:

• Ventilation
• Position of the temperature sensor
• How well sealed and insulated the sauna is
• Whether the heater's output is correctly sized for the sauna
  • Sauna walls made of materials such as stone, tiles, concrete or glass require a greater output to heat the sauna

If everything seems to be in order but the sauna is still not heating up properly, contact the dealer where you purchased the heater.

Contact your local dealer. Click here to find one near you.

Yes, but all the walls and ceiling must be thermally insulated.

Yes, in most cases it is possible to replace the heating coil elements. Contact a Tylö dealer for more information. 

If the overheat protection trips, it is usually an indication of poor or inadequate ventilation through the heater and the sauna room. Always follow the instructions in the heater manual about the design and specifications for ventilation in the sauna.

Also, check the stone compartment if the overheat protection thermostat trips. If the stones have become compact, restack them to allow for the free flow of air between them.

Lastly. always contact a qualified electrician to reset the overheat protection thermostat if it is not possible to reset it on the outside of the heater.

Unfortunately, no. Control panels are designed and configured to work only with the sauna heater they are sold with.

 If you have an old Tylö heater, it is usually possible to connect it to a new control panel. Contact your Tylö dealer for more information. 

The electronic control panel is more accurate than the mechanical thermometer. The measurement variation is caused by the sensor locations; the temperature sensor for the electronic control panel is placed in the best possible location for accuracy to ensure a pleasant and safe sauna experience. 

Pure and Elite Cloud control panels can be installed inside the sauna, provided it is a Tylö built sauna room. Follow the instructions in the manual for each product on installing the control panel inside the sauna room. 

Temperature sensor location is dependent on which control panel model you have. Generally, the sensor should never be placed directly above the heater. Follow the instructions given in the manual for each product.

While the sensor comes with a 13' long cable, it can be elongated with a two-wire cable if necessary.